Thursday, December 01, 2011

Sewing Books Review (Pt 2)

Picking up from where I left off, here's the second part of my reviews of 2 more sewing books. These books focus on pattern drafting.

Pattern-drafting may not be for everyone as it takes quite a lot of time and multiple muslin trials and errors to get a good fit. But it is very fun if you like to come up with your own designs! :D Here are the books I have on pattern-drafting:

The first sewing book I ever purchased, one which I researched and pondered over for the LONGEST time too. It took me a longggg time to decide between this book and Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong, but because the latter uses the imperial system (inches) and I grew up studying in the metric system (centimetres) thanks to the British colonisation, I decided to finally go with Winifred Aldrich.

This book taught me how to draft patterns according to my own measurements. It has a lot of variations of sleeves, darts, collars, and basic bodice patterns for woven materials (ie cotton) and non-woven materials (ie jersey). Each diagram is accompanied by instructions on how to draft them. As you can see I've marked LOADS of pages, most of them are styles and variations that I like and can see myself incorporating them into my designs.

6. Modern Pattern Design by Harriet Pepin

This book was once available online at , but sadly the website is now down (I'm guessing due to lack of donations?). Rozy posted a link on our Sewing Buddies FB group to a downloadable PDF version at Michou Loves Vintage, which I read on our ipad. Now here is the interesting thing: I actually find this book a GREAT accompaniment to Winifred Aldrich's book above. While Adrich's book covers a lot of styles and variations, Pepin's book covers less variations but has rather in-depth in explanations about WHY those variations are needed (ie what type of dart works best for a large bust, etc).

You may notice that the illustrations and styles look very old and outdated, but to me, I am still able to learn about form and fit. Plus, fashion styles are always a cycle. Who knew shoulder pads would come back in fashion again? Michael Kors / Heidi Klum made a remark on an episode of Project Runway that went something like "That looks terribly 80s, and that's not something people would like", and I laughed because I watched that episode only a year later when the 80s fashion did make a comeback :P

So despite referencing "outdated" styles, both books do teach a lot about pattern making, and understanding how different positions of little things like darts can make a big difference.

And that's about it, hope this didn't bore anyone to the abyss of boredom.

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